I used to travel a lot but now I'm a homebody with a lot of side hustles.
Author: Liau Yun Qing
Yun Qing is a writer, improviser and curious person. She loves finding little adventures in life. In 2013, she went on a 130-day round-the-world trip. She wrote a book "Your Big Break" to help those who also want to go on a career break.
It’s Friday again! And I will end of my three-part post of the visit to Candi Sukuh the erotic temple with a bit about food since Fridays are FoodFri here.
After combing the site for graphic sculptures of dicks (sorry mom!), we set back for the flat lands. (Maybe I should clarify that I was the only one looking for dicks, not knowing that I was surrounded by symbolic penes.)
Our motorcyclists took us back to the little town where we ordered two glasses of coffee from the shop next door. The lady owning the stall was tonguetied when we asked her for the price. I imagined her brain making calculations of how much extra charge she could get away with.
The price wasn’t too expensive but we didn’t even get to have two sips of the coffee as the bus back into Karangpandan was here.
Overcharged kopi
Lunch time
There were a lot of school kids on the bus but they didn’t sit. D said they probably paid less and weren’t allowed to sit. Or maybe they like standing.
Just hanging around after school. (Not the bus I took)
At Karangpandan, I went to one of the convenience stores to get some pain killers for my head.
We stopped by a small warung run by a lady with her daughters. The eatery was a wooden shack by the roadside with an aluminium roof.
Warung menuwarungwarung deco
We sat on the floor and ate two person’s portion of lunch. I had fried chicken and some sweet tea. The avocado juice was really amazing too.
sweet tea
We lazed around the warung for a long while before we headed back to the bus terminal for the bus to Solo.
Before we left, I took a photo of the newspaper front page which proudly proclaimed: “Solo nominated as one of the seven most amazing cities in the world, beating Jakarta and Singapore.”
Solo wins
Follow my 3-part adventures to Candi Sukuh:
In part 1, we took the bus which played sexy music videos while in part 2, I was surrounded by symbolic dicks which I took for home deco.
This post is part 2 of 3 of D and my trip to erotic temple Candi Sukuh in Indonesia. Find out how we decided to visit the location and our journey to the site in part 1.
xxx
The motorcycle drivers deposited us at the foot of a hill after a rather calm ride (no one was tossed off their bikes, thank goodness). The way uphill was steep and would have taken forever if we had walked.
We couldn’t see the ruins from the entrance but the site didn’t look big.
I read someone’s blog which described Candi Sukuh as a mini Mexican temple. Did the ancient architects go to the same school of building design?
After paying for our entrance, we read the only description available of the site in the form of a faded poster on a display board behind a pane of dirty glass.
After reading, we entered the real site by climbing a flight of stone steps. I would rather climbed through the narrow staircase of the stone building near the steps but the gate was locked. Stairs to Candi Sukuh
The real Candi Sukuh
When I first saw the real site, I was slightly disappointed at its petite size. I was expecting something on a grander scale but the area was rather small and could be seen in about half an hour time.
It was interesting how the ancient people “layered” the temple grounds so the main building was the highest. Candi Sukuh
Once I’ve gotten over my first world problem of being disappointed by the smallness of the site, I was in awe of the sculptures. I could not even draw half of these beings, how did they get them onto the rocks.
Gate of Candi Sukuh“I believe I can fly”Candi Sukuh decoWall carvings of Candi SukuhBasin of Candi SukuhMask of terror
There was a couple taking pre-wedding photographs on the temple grounds. I think it’s really cool to take photos there because it’s a lot more unique than the general fake screens we see.
Wedding shoot at Candi Sukuh
To the altar of Candi Sukuh
To the altar of Candi Sukuh Stairs to rooftop bar of Candi Sukuh
The highlight of the site was the rooftop altar which could only be reached by climbing a narrow staircase. The width of the entrance showed how petite 15th-century people were but us 21st century big boned folks also made it.
On the rooftop, it was a bit dizzying to see the tea gardens. I kept thinking I might slip and crash head first onto the stone pavement. Ouch! Hi from Candi Sukuh’s rooftop altar
My only complaint
One embarrassing complaint I have about Candi Sukuh is the lack of erotic symbols. For a fertility temple, there’s too little eroticism around.
I was hoping for something like Haesindang Park but I only found two statues that were explicit.
So this time, I want to do an experiment. Instead of bringing you straight to the destination, I want to bring you along on the trip to Candi Sukuh.
Are you ready? Sights of Candi Sukuh
Prologue
During my eight-day trip to Yogyakarta, Indonesia, D and I headed to Solo for a couple of days. I don’t remember why we chose to go to Solo but it might be because of the relatively short train ride to the city.
While in Solo, we took a day trip to Candi Sukuh. I admit that my motif for visiting was due to its unofficial title as being an erotic temple.
On the day we were heading to Candi Sukuh, we dropped by the tourist information center opposite Hotel Dana where we were staying at.
The man at the information counter tried to persuade us to take a taxi there but we insisted on taking the public transport for two reasons:
It’s more indie.
It’s cheaper.
However, we did take a cab to the main bus terminal because Trans Solo wasn’t as efficient as Trans Jogja (or Trans Jakarta, which I found out months afterwars)
From the main terminal at Solo, we hopped on a bus heading to Karangpandan where we to switched to a smaller bus.
The bus from Solo was a large bus. The seats were divided by a narrow corridor: the seats on the right could sit three petite locals while the ones on the left were for two. Being big-boned, we took the 3-seater for the two of us.
While waiting for the rest of the passengers to board, the bus was a bit warm and stuffy but it cooled down when the bus started moving as an endless gust of wind come in from from the partly open windows and the never-closed door.
As the bus chugged past fields of paddy, the bus conductor hungout of the open door, making sounds like an ambulance as we passed by motorists. “Wee-woo-wee-woo!”
In front of our row was a family with a doe-eyed child. The kid stared at us a while before turning to the front.
Show your sexy move
Usually when I am on a bus with TV, I am more likely to look at the box than the scenery. I think this has something to do with the TV being my baby sitter while I was growing up.
But I was really shocked when I saw the shows on the bus. They were was playing really sexy music videos.
On the bus
Women dressed in strips of cloth writhed in front of the camera to loud techno music. I pretty much stared at the TV, wide mouthed. How on earth is something this sexy shown when Lady Gaga is “chased out of Indonesia“.
Later, the videos switched to wild life so I end up staring at the back of the head kid who had peeped at us from his seat.
At one of the stops, a boy came on board with a small guitar (a ukelele?) and serenaded each row. No one gave him money so he left after a round on the corridor.
Touchy feely on the bus
Finally, we arrived at Karangpandan station where we switched to a smaller bus. This bus was much smaller with two seaters on each side of the corridor.
I sat by the windows with D next to the aisle. A bunch of old ladies later came onboard.
The bus seats were rather cramped and I held on to the window edge with my fingers in case my butt slipped too far.
During the ride, I heard the old ladies chattering for a while. Then D spoke out loud, “Hello madams.” The old ladies twittered but stopped talking.
Later, D told me that the old ladies discussed among themselves how fair she was. This escalated to arm touching to see if the skin was real. When D greeted them in Indonesian, they looked sheepish. :3
Foot of the hill
The bus climbed up hills after hills on a narrow road. It then stopped in a small town. The conductor told us this was our stop for Candi Sukuh.
foot of hill where we got rides to the temple
We found a motorcycle workshop and asked if they provided lifts to the temple. (I’ve read on the Internet that it’s better to get a motorcycle ride than walk.)
Two of the men volunteered after we discussed a price. I went along with the younger driver.
Wearing my hair gel-smelling helmet, I enjoyed the view of the valley and the cool air. My driver kept persuading me to visit the tea plantations and another temple faraway.
view of tea garden
After a very steep hill, our motorcycles stopped and the drivers told us that they will wait for us while we visited the temple grounds.
I feel like I do not write enough about Singapore so here’s an introduction of a nice cafe in the peaceful neighborhood of Tiong Bahru–Drips Bakery Cafe.
I found out about the place from J who has impeccable taste when it comes to nice food.
My breakfast platter #2 (S$15.80++) was gigantic. I especially love the buttered toast. The bread was sweet and the butter salty but creamy.
The sausage was a little unfortunate though. It was limp and the sausage skin was too tough to saw off with my knife. :( Drips Cafe brunch
The caffè latte was normal and it wasn’t burnt, which to my untrained palate is good enough. Drips Cafe caffè latte
Setting
Enough about the food (Wait a minute, is this not #FoodFri?), I want to show you the rest of the cafe. Interior of Drips Cafe
The cafe is on the ground floor of a shophouse. In the front are the counters for food and drinks, the middle is where the table and chairs are while deeper inside there are couches. View from inside Drips Cafe
At the coffee section, there was a sign saying: “TRAVEL”. I was wondering why it was there. I think it’s because the romance of travelling. Drips Cafe–Travel
The walls were decorated with paintings that were available for sale. Most of them were semi-abstract and priced too high for me to support the artist. Paintings for sale at Drips Cafe
Bonus tourist attraction
Temple of the Monkey King
There’s a temple dedicated to the Monkey God from the Chinese classic Journey to the West at the corner of the road.
I wasn’t sure why Sun Wu Kong would be deified since he’s a made up character. At the altar, there were figurines of the Monkey God.
Directions: Drips Bakery Cafe is at 82 Tiong Poh Road, #01-05, S(160082).
The nearest MRT is at Outram Station (green line) and it’s just a short walk away. Checkout gothere.sg’s map.
For me, the most stressful part of planning a trip is booking the right hotel. The price has to be right. The distance to town should not be too far. The beds should be comfy with no bed bugs.
I guess that’s the reason why I keep choosing Tune Hotel when there’s a branch at my destination. When I found out that there was an opening sale for the new Bangkok branch. Tune Hotel – Asoke, I immediately made my booking.
During the sale, the basic room fee was 299 baht before taxes, Based on my past three experience staying at different Tune Hotels (Kota Bahru, Ipoh and Kuching), I decided that I needed to add on 24 hour airconditioning and Wi-Fi. The bill came around to 661.92 baht. Tune Hotel Asoke bill
I’m not sure if it’s any cheaper than other hotels but I was sure that Tune Hotels have comfy beds and powerful showers. (5 star for 1 star price)
Airport to Tune Hotel
It’s a bit tricky to find how to take public transport from Don Muang airport to Tune Hotel as even the Web site is vague.
I printed out the hotel name and address (in English and Thai), showed it to the lady at the taxi counter who gave me a slip of paper and told me to wait for a cab.
To reach the hotel, the cabbie had to drive into the narrow lane of Sukhumvit Soi 14. The trip came up to be about 210 baht, even though the lady at the airport said it might be 350 baht.
If you are taking the public transport to Tune Hotel Asoke, stop at the BTS Asoke station. You will see a sign pointing to the hotel. Actually, you can see the hotel from the station. Sign pointing to Tune Hotel
After turning into Soi 14, you can see Suda Restaurant and a sign pointing to the hotel. (According to online reviews, this restaurant isn’t too bad. I’ve not tried it though.) From Soi 14 to Tune Hotel
The hotel sticks out like a sore thumb (in a good way) among the posh housing. Facade of Tune Hotel Asoke
The guard was very enthusiatic about helping me with my luggage. Unfortunately, I only had a backpack so he couldn’t help me. If you are heading out, he can help you call a cab too.
Checking in
Tune Hotel Asoke reception
When I reached, there was about 15 minutes before checkin time 1400. The receptionists were very strict about the time so I sat at the bench with the other early guests.
There was a play area where you can take photos of yourself and send it to your e-mail box. Tune Hotel Asoke lobby
Finally! 1400 hours arrived. I queued behind some of the guests who were even more anxious about checking in.
There was quite a long form to fill out. The receptionist also scanned my passport and the immigration entry form.
I was roomed on the fourth floor which is not the most auspicious. Tune Hotel 4th floor
The room
Double room of Tune Hotel Asoke
As the hotel only opened recently, everything was brand spanking new. I was quite happy that the toilet did not smell mouldy like it did in Kuching.
Strangely, there was a large mirror above the bed. It made the room seem larger but I cannot figure out what it is for. Double room of Tune Hotel Asoke
Since I booked 24 hours of airconditioning, the key slot did not show the count down to my airconditioning-less hour. Insert key here
As usual, there is a TV (which you can pay for) but I used it as towel rack. There’s also a menu for room service above the TV. The food is a bit overpriced though. Le TV
Wrapping up this post, I love everything about Tune Hotel Asoke, the location and price.
To Padang Besar & Hatyai
When I was planning my trip to Padang Besar, Perlis, I wanted to walk from Malaysia to Thailand so I could tell people, “Yup, I’ve walked to Thailand from Malaysia before.”
So I flipped through the traveller’s bible, aka Lonely Planet, and was shocked.
In the tiny two-inch column for Padang Besar, the guidebook said: “Very few people, if any, walk the more than 2km of no-man’s land between the Thai and Malaysian sides of the border.”
NO INSTRUCTION, IT’S THE DAY OF DESTRUCTION.
After freaking out, I decided to become one of the “very few people” to walk to Thailand and back. And write a post about it. (Although another reason I’m walking is that I am too stingy to pay for the RM40 cab fare.)
A guide to walking from Malaysia to Thailand
Step 1 Get to Padang Besar’s immigration checkpoint Malaysian side of immigration checkpoint border
The entrance of immigration checkpoint is right in front of the big roundabout. Walk up to the toll booth-like area, keeping to your left since cars and motorbikes are on the right.
Step 2 Get your documents verified (and stamped)
Pass through the immigration checkpoint using the electronic gates if you have a Malaysian passport.
If you have a foreign passport, you’ll need to get it stamped at one of the officer’s booth.
Step 3 Walk a lot
It’s quite a long walk to the end of the border from the document checking area. Even though you will see a path (which is persumably for pedestrians) near the walls, do not take that route as it brings you to a dead end. Weird murals
Admire the murals while you walk. I am not sure who the murals were put up for, perhaps it is for drivers who are stuck in a traffic jam.
Wave as drivers drive pass and motorcyclists give you a second look. Sticking out a thumb to hitchhike here does not work. I tried.
You will eventually reach the end of Malaysia’s border where a few officials hang around.
Step 4 Explain why you are walking to anyone who asks
The immigration officers will be curious why you are walking when there are motorcycle shuttles. The excuse “Because we want to” does not seem to satisfy their curiosity.
The officer practically interrogated us after looking at our passports. When we said we just wanted to walk to Thailand, he told that there were motorcycles shuttling people across. I asked where the motorbikes are, he pointed to the other end. I told him that I will not walk all the way back just for a motorcycle.
After being released, we walked to the Thai part of the border.
Step 5 Reach Thai border
There are no lines on the road to tell where passengers can walk, so be careful of traffic.
Follow the cars and where a bunch of people are filling up forms. Fill up the form and pay RM1 to the immigration officer.
Step 6 Enter Thailand
With the new stamp in your passport, head out of the immigration checkpoint. Do not be alarmed that it looks exactly like Malaysia but with Thai signs.
A guide to walking back to Malaysia from Thailand
Step 1 Get to Padang Beser checkpoint
The line back to Malaysia is not the same as the one you came in from. It’s at the other gate.
Step 2 Get passport stamped
Get your Checking Out stamp and hand over another RM1 to the person behind the booth.
Step 3 Walk back to Malaysia
The Malaysian folks will be less curious about you by now. Walk on. Same as usual, walk on the left side of the road to avoid traffic.
There is a sad duty free store along the no-man’s land. The Zone duty free shopping
Step 4 Get your documents verified to enter Malaysia For pedestrian
Show off your passport to the official at the toll booth. You must get an entry stamp or face being stripped naked during interrogation when you want to leave Malaysia. This is serious business.
Step 5 Get your luggage scanned
There’s probably no one in luggage check so just ignore this step.
Step 6 Back in Malaysia
At the end of the Malaysian customs, another officer will be interested in why you are walking. Answer his questions even though you know all the answers are in the passport which he is holding. Smile pleasantly.
Have you walked through the Malaysian-Thai border before?
It’s Friday again. TGIF! And Fridays are special days here as it’s #FoodFri, a day when I share a food-related post with you. Today, we will visit Cabbages & Condoms in Thailand.
Tell me, how can you not visit a restaurant with a name like “Cabbages & Condoms” especially when its tagline is “Our food is guaranteed not to cause pregnancy”. That is hilarious.
Before you go around thinking this is a kinky place where people eat salad after some naughty exercises, let me explain the name. Cabbages & Condoms the restaurant is run by the Population and Community Development Association (PDA) which helps with family planning. Someone who’s involved in PDA and C&Cwanted condoms to be as ubiquitous as cabbages, therefore the name.
When I found out that Cabbages & Condoms is really near Tune Hotel, I added it into my itinerary even though guide books warned that the food is mediocre for its price.
After checking in Tune Hotel on my first day in Bangkok, I walked to Soi 12 where the restaurant is located.
It’s hidden inside the alley, after one suspicious “club” and a posh-looking massage center. 30m to Cabbages & Condoms
Welcome to Cabbages & Condoms
After walking on the shady path, I came across a souvenir shop but didn’t go in.
Condoms, condoms everywhere
The place used condoms (not to be confused with condoms that were used) for decoration.
Exhibit A: Condom lampshade Condom lampshade
Exhibit B: Condom fashion Condom fashion
Exhibit C: Condom clothes Condom “clothes”
‘Romantic’ lighting
Being Southeast Asia, I chose to lunch inside the airconditioned restaurant instead of hanging out at the alfresco area with the sun shining on me.
The interior is a bit dark. The walls were decorated with condoms from other countries. Interior deco
My table was next to a wall with less racy deco. “Cabbages & Condoms” is trademarked in Japan
There were a few news paper clipping in Japanese about the restaurant and a certificate of trademark.
While waiting for the food
I ordered a Tom Kah Kai and a coffee. While waiting for my drink and food, I found out that they have a recipe on the table mat. I wonder how many people actually copy it down to make a dish. Recipe table mat
I also discovered that the utensils were branded with the name of the restaurant. Plate with restaurant’s name
Coffee glass
Recipe table mat
I listened in to a table nearby of businessmen who were discussing companies in the networking industry. I was kind of disappointed that I didn’t hear any trade secrets which I could have used as scoops.
My chicken in coconut milk soup
My soup and rice came after a while. The coconut milk curdled in my sourish soup. Coconut milk soup chicken
It was a large serving which was probably meant to be share among a table of friends. Instead, all of the soup and rice went into my stomach, making me really bloated but also help me stave off hunger for the rest of the day.
The food wasn’t the best thing I’ve tasted on earth and was just “meh”. There wasn’t enough salt and felt like drinking lemongrass soup with hints of coconut.
The unsaltiness made my tongue confused. Was this supposed to be dessert or a main meal?
At the end of the meal, I asked for the bill. As expected, instead of a mint, there was a condom with my bill. I not-so-secretly slipped it into my bag before paying up. This came with my bill
At the exit, the restaurant cheekily had two separate boxes for condoms: Republican size and Democrat size. I peeped in and found out that they were the same size. Sorry, We have no mints.
Review: Cabbages & Condoms, Bangkok, Thailand
Location: Sukhumvit Soi 12
Food: So so taste
Price: $$
Pro: Fun theme and for a good cause
Cons: So so food than regular Thai places
Despite that, I always feel a sense of euphoria when I stumble upon second hand bookshops overseas.
The musty smell of the shop, the yellowing pages and the cheap price of books give me more thrill than shopping for clothes unless the garments are second hand and cheap.
Here are a few of the hidden treasures I’ve found during my travels:
BOOK OFF, Japan
BOOK OFF, Tokyo BOOK OFF is one of Japan’s second hand book store chain. I was introduced to it by my host family in Fukuoka. At the end of my summer school, I sent home a heavy box of Japanese manga.
Popular manga usually go for 200 yen for a book while older manga are 100 yen. Foreign language books are not cheap though.
When I visit Japan (which is not often), I always have my eyes peeled for a branch of BOOK OFF on the streets. (There’s even some BOOK OFFs in Paris, if you are ever there.) When I see a BOOK OFF, I can’t help popping in to see their collection.
During my last trip to Japan, I had a free day waiting for the evening to come so I could go to Gintama Land. I found a BOOK OFF on the second floor of a building and spent hours in the shop, thumbing through comics.
Books in BOOK OFF are always in pristine condition. They look even better than most of the books on my shelf back home.
The Japanese usually read books stores while standing (it even has its own phrase “tachiyomi“). On weekends, it’s quite a sight to see everyone standing, reading while facing the bookshelves.
Bouquinerie du Centre, Nantes
Bouquinerie du Centre, Nantes
I was looking for a place to have lunch in the center of Nantes when I came across a second hand bookstore “Bouquinerie du Centre”.
The selection wasn’t a lot but it had titles which weren’t easily available in Singapore.
Trying to look smart, I picked up a few Simone de Beauvoir’s books which looked easy enough to be read. Le deuxième sexe wasn’t available, unfortunately.
But I must confess that the books are still in the suitcase since my move to my new rented room in August 2011.
Adobe Bookshop, San Francisco
Adobe Bookshop, San Francisco
While in the Mission District looking for lunch (again!), I found Adobe Bookshop. The shop was in a state of orderly mess with stacks of books arranged alphabetically according to author and genre.
I browsed the rows and rows of books, squeezing through bookshelves and found a man snoozing in one of the armchairs.
While I was looking for something to buy back home, a man came into the shop. He said he accidentally bought the same book and asked if he could exchange it for another. The shopowner agreed.
The old gentleman came to my aisle and was looking up and down for the author’s row. When he asked me if I knew where the author’s book was, I helped him in his search. We found it.
He then asked if I had my lunch as he was going to grab a bite. Although he didn’t feel threatening, I pretended that I just ate because I don’t think I should go around having lunch with strangers I’ve just met, even if it was in a book store. Bridget Jones
While browsing, I overheard the shopowner telling a customer that the shop will be closing down as the landlord wanted to increase the price of the rent. I looked at the price of the books and wondered how the shop manage to stay open in the first place.
When I paid for my books, the shopowner asked if I was from overseas. I answered, “Singapore”. He then said that he was collecting foreign currency and if I had any money from Singapore to exchange with one of the foreign money in the plate.
I did have a S$2 note and I chose a pre-Euro coin from France. I said my thanks and left with my books.
I think the shop would have closed down by now. I feel sad.
This post was inspired by this week’s #Travel Talk on Twitter (#TTOT): Hidden treasures.
Have you stumbled upon hidden treasures when travelling? What was it?
I’m travelling to South America some time next year and I want to be able to speak Spanish to help me go through life easier.
I went to a Spanish language school a few months back and quite enjoyed it. My four semesters of French made it easier to pick up the language compared to my other classmates who were were thrown into the deep end of the Spanish pool.
Even though the language school has higher level classes, I don’t think I am want to spend about S$300 to improve my Spanish.
Self studying Spanish
What will I do then? I plan to self study.
I’m a fan of self-proclaimed language hacker, Benny Lewis, who evangelizes speaking from day 1.
While I probably won’t be as hardcore as he is buy speaking from day 1, I plan to learn from his methods and do a lot of self studying.
I don’t think I will be able to speak Spanish in 30 days.
I’ve borrowed some language books and CDs from the library which I can practise reading and listening from.
For more listening and vocabulary practice, I can check out Spanishversions of pop songs (although I’m not that sure of some of their accents).
I also discovered that my current-favorite TV show/band (Flight of the Conchords) has Spanish dubs. I’ve put up a playlist of Los conchords in Spanish. If I can get my hands on the lyrics, I’ll be able to learn new vocabulary.
If you are interested in laughing out loud to songs, I recommend:
– Fashion is Danger [English | Spanish]
– You Don’t Have to be a Prostitute [English | Spanish]
– Business Time [English | Spanish]
Even though it’s still too early, I have a Spanish version of Bridget Jones’s Diary which I bought second hand while in San Francisco. I have the English version, maybe I can do a side-by-side readings? My goal is to understand at least 50% of the content by the time I leave for South America. Bridget Jones’s Diary, en espanoil
To end this post, I bring you the only Spanish song I know all the lyrics to.
Week 43 of the Indie Travel Challenge is a challenge to start learning a new language:
Q: Do you speak two languages or more? What are those?
A: Fluent English, Mandarin Chinese and Malay. Conversational Japanese, French.
It looks like a jelly made out of squid ink. It tastes like bitter Chinese medicine, even when you drown it with the sweet syrup shops provide.
The only consolation is that it’s good for your health. In Chinese tradiotional medicine speak: It is good for “cooling” the body.
I didn’t like Guīlínggāo when I was a kid. It was too bitter. But now that I’ve grown up, I quite enjoy the bitterness and its contrast with the honey-sweet syrup.
If you are ever in Singapore, Malaysia, Hong Kong, Taiwan and China, try a bowl. Go on.
YQtravelling 