See you in Vietnam!

If the weather permits, I’ll be landing in Da Nang airport, Vietnam, at 4pm+ Singapore time later today. I bought the tickets last October when AirAsia started its flight to Da Nang–9 months in advance.

It wasn’t until the past few months that I started reading up on Da Nang. I was thinking of places to visit but I realized the historical town Hoi An is more suitable for me than beach town of Danang. (I’m also very tempted to visit Hue.)

I’ve done the best I’ve could in preparing for the trip, including reading guidebooks and clipping Hoi An-related content from the Web using Evernote.

I’ve also booked a room at a homestay with good reviews on TripAdvisor. As a solo female traveler, I feel safer living with a family than a single room in an unknown motel especially in a country where I don’t speak the language.

I expect to eat, cycle, get tailored clothes, pretend to sun myself at the beach in Hoi An. But the activities aren’t set in stone. ;)

Onward march!

Revisiting Vietnam

The last time I was in Vietnam, it was in the summer month of August in 2009. I just graduated and was looking for a job. But Nguyen, whom I met while on student exchange in China, persuaded me to visit her in Saigon to eat pho.


Since then, I’ve leveled up my travelling skills. I’ll be bringing the same red backpack but without the heavy carry-on. (My goodness, was the bag really only $4.90?!)

The food was wonderful! Pho, french baguetee and all those yummy unknown. Also, Vietnamese coffee can only be described of as f*cking great(a la DollarShaveClub).

Other pre-trip entries:
Selamat tinggal, I’ll be in Yogyakarta
Do you know the way to San Jose?

Read: To Vietnam with Love

I usually read up on places I am visiting before a trip. Whether it is travel guides, blog posts, recommendation sites, I read them all.

I picked up <<To Vietnam with Love: A travel guide for the connoisseur>> as an afterthought. I was at the library and my arms were already heavy with two other guidebooks.

But I’m glad I did.

<<To Vietnam with Love>> is one of the rare travel guide books that breaks away from the tradition guidebook structure. (I believe the <<To Asia with Love>> series have have the same format.)

The “traditional” travel guide structure is the main reason I don’t review travel guides here.

In a regular guidebook, I find:
->History of City
->Sights to see
->Eat
->Accommodation
->Things to be careful of
->Nearby fun stuff

<<To Vietnam with Love>> is structured differently. Instead of having cities as chapters, it has different themes: Eating, Shopping, Sightseeing, Local culture and etc.

Under each theme, different writers introduce us to the Vietnam he or she has experienced. At the end of their story, there is a blue box that lists the addresses of the places mentioned.

A break from tradition

I was very much in love with this refreshing structure and the layout. The stories were short enough to keep me captivated. They were also useful since the authors give a part of the Vietnam they know to us. (But not very useful if you want a This is What You Should Do kind of travel advice.)

The introduction of the guidebook is spot on. After reading the stories, I felt like I was listening to someone’s travels in Vietnam after a dinner at someone’s house.

The book is also a contrast to other travel compilations.

One thing I don’t like about travel compilations such as <<The Best Women’s Travel Writing>> (please don’t blacklist me) is the length of the stories and the layout of the page.

Most of the pieces of such compilations are long short-story. The text spans from the left border to the right. Adding these two together makes a rather unpleasant pleasant reading experience, even though the stories are great.

A caution to crybabies

Most of the writers in the book are Americans. Since the US has fought in the Vietnam War, a lot of the stories were about revisiting the country as a veteran or a relative of the veteran.

A warning to emotional people like me, these war-related pieces made me weep over my lunch. (Heck, I wept when Hedwig died in the last Harry Potter book.) I had to wipe tears off my cheek or risk eating my tears in my porridge.

Overall, it is a very good book to have, especially if you are not visiting Vietnam. For folks who want itineraries, it’s much better to get the normal travel guidebooks.

Check out other interesting travel book reviews here:

Read: The Great Railway Bazaar
Eat, Pray, Love (Skip the India section.)
Round the world with NT$100,000 (Chinese)
The Naked Traveler (Indonesian)

I’m heading to central Vietnam soon. Any reading recommendations?

What Mark Zuckerberg ate in Vietnam

http://jezebel.com/5871398/mark-zuckerbergs-amazing-race-luxury-vacation-revealed

The trip ended with more hiking, where Zuck didn’t even need to hunt down local wildlife to kill and eat, because his entire trip was restricted to the finest vegetarian fare in the 3rd world:

Dinners

Grilled Fillet With Coconut With Barbecue Sauce
Fried Tofu With Tomato Sauce
Fried Egg With Sapa Mushroom
Sapa trout carpaccio with shallot and lemon oil
Grilled pork and apple skewers with Sapa honey (Don’t touch that, Mark!)
Sapa mushroom risotto
Eggplant, tomato and onion gratin

Lunch
Cucumber Salad
Fried Shrimp vegetable
Fried Channa Maculata Fish
Potato with Cheese

Desserts
Baked pear and cinnamon crumble
Creme caramel
Gingerbread pudding
Rice pudding with Strawberry sauce

All this food talk is making me hungry! Good news is I’ll be in Vietnam twice next year, bad news is, I won’t be able to eat all that un-Vietnamese food the billionare CEO of Facebook ate.

NOM.

Long live Vietnamese coffee

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The first time I had Vietnamese coffee was in My Tho, the hometown of N. Before the trip, I was already a coffee junkie, requiring one cup of coffee with milk each day or else I’ll feel a headache coming up.

Before the trip, I’ve read about Vietnamese coffee. Butter roasted, dripped through a metal filter into condensed milk. I figured it would taste the same as the regular coffee in Malaysia or Singapore since we use condensed milk too.

I waited for the cup of coffee to finish filtering and stirred in my condensed milk.

I lifted the cup and took a zip, then frowned. Continue reading “Long live Vietnamese coffee”

How I learned to eat like a rabbit

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I hate eating raw vegetables. Maybe it’s because I’ve grown up in a Chinese household where salads are not common.

I dislike the taste of raw leafy greens, eating it makes me feel like a goat. (Others would inject here: At least say a rabbit, not goat!)

It wasn’t until I was in Vietnam where they consumed pails of vegetable that I learned how to eat raw greens (half raw, would be the better term).

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At a pho restaurant, a metal pail of fresh greens await you. When you bowl of piping hot beef noodle soup comes, you pluck the leaves off and dunk it into your soup.

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I gingerly sniffed the darker greens. It smelled alright. A bit of the unnamed vegetable and I was hooked. Their veg has a slightly herby taste that goes so well with beef soup.

 

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The next time I ate another pho, I eagerly drowned my vegetable in the hot soup and slurped it along with my noodles. Yummy.

But the spell broke once I ended my trip. Back home, all greens uncooked taste yucks.

This post is part of BootssAll’s 30 Days of Indie Travel project. Day 8: Love Learning.

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The rest of my posts for the project can be found here.

0814: Mekong river trip

As always, uploading photos before I slowly continue with the blog

We woke up around 7am in the morning. Very glad that my body is still living in GMT +8 or I would never be able to wake up.

Nguyen’s mom insisted on showing me her prized mangoes. They were bigger than my fist!

Nguyen made preserved green mangoes with them at night– preserving in boiled fish sauce and sugar.

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I like the composition of this photo.

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Osmanthus fragrans– very very fragrant flowers. There were two bushes of such flowers planted next to the bedroom windows.

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Nguyen told me that her mother planted them so that when she opens the windows in the morning, she would be greeted by the fragrance.

However, she didn’t realised that she was allergic to them. In the end, the bushes had to be trimmed.

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For breakfast, we went to the town guesthouse. We sat in the shaded courtyard, on small chairs– like chairs for kindergartners. The table was petite too.

Each meal in Vietnam comes with free tea. And I love tea, free or not.

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We had the famous My Tho noodles for breakfast. It was very yummy bee hoon soup.

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Nguyen said that if she would not be bored eating them even if she has to eat them for all meals for the rest of her life.

And at the guesthouse, I had my first taste of Vietnamese cofffee.

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My first sip and I frowned. They got my order wrong! Why do I have chocolate when I ordered coffee?

Why is it so sweet? What is this smooth flavour on my tongue?

And I drank another sip. It is coffee. And it is the famous Vietmanese coffee–roasted with butter and mixed with sweet sweet condensed milk.

I am in love! With Vietnamese coffee.

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After breakfast, Nguyen, her mom, her cousin and I went to the jetty for a tour of the Mekong river.

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We floated around on a boat, adoring the gray water, blue sky and fluffy clouds. And reapplying sunblock on the boat.

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Petrol station on waters

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House that looks like it’s flooded.

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Floating fish farm

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And we landed at one of the islands on the river. There were stalls selling touristy things. A stage to perform touristy performance. And somewhere that shows how coconut candy is made. I missed out on the candy making but I can imagine how tasty it would be.

It was a very tourist thing to do– take a smaller boat ride on the streams of the island.

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I spotted this and wondered who built an amusement park in the middle of Mekong river.

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Turns out to be Phoenix Island where the Coconut Monk spent this day preaching.

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The coconut monk was a guy who spent his days on the island eating coconuts. He told the world that he will be able to unite North and South Vietnam.

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This is his meditation area.

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A walk around the island and we went to rest. I love all this resting.

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Coconuts

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Hello mainland

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All wrapped up

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A very tasty drink of soda, sugar and lime, of course plus a huge block of ice.

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Fish from Mekong river

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Veg and noodles for your spring roll

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Thick french fries

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The rolling of spring rolls

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0813: My Tho-village kids and ducklings

Today, I will be going with Nguyen’s mother to a village near My Tho where her office will be giving out exercise books to village children.

For breakfast is the very delicious banh mi. Vietnamese sandwich that has baguette instead of sliced bread. And I tell you, baguette is the best invention, not sliced bread.

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When everyone ate their bread, they cracked it open before eating. I wonder if it’s a tradition or if people are just curious.

A 4WD picked us up and brought us to the village area. The scenery is actually very similar to those in Sabah so I fell asleep as well.

In front of the school, there is something like this. And it’s not a rest area, but a plaque with names of good people carved on it. There are a lot of these plaques around.

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These Crocs are made for walking!

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Lots of curious people turned up for the ceremony. I mean people being curious, not them as “curious”. Do I still make sense?

Parents crowded at the sides and entrance to see what the fuss was about. I was too shy to take their photos so I took the photos of curious kids instead. Cuteness!

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And they are filmed too!

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Makes me think how wasteful I am, taking exercise books for granted–buying new ones even though old ones still have some pages left.

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After the ceremony, we visited the house of a “rich guy”. He has tens of bonsai in his garden. And he has quite a few antique furniture.

A bed. But imagine laying on a plank to sleep.

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A sofa/bed

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Mirrors

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Nicely inlaid cabinet
 

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And he served us river prawns. They were gigantic and yummy. The flesh was coarser than the ones I have at home, but this only means that they are not fed with prawn feed. If there are anything like that.

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Then we left for lunch. At a U-turn where we were not supposed to U-turn, there was an accident because some one turned at the U-turn where we were not supposed to U-turn.

and like everywhere in the world, accidents attract by-standers, by-drivers and by-passengers, making it very crowded.

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Bang!

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I can imagine their conversation:
Tsk tsk, he shold have know better.
Yaloh, just last week A-beng’s motor almost ran into A-seng’s
Tsk tsk

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And, on the way to lunch, the rich guy told us about his nephew. Well, told everyone who knew Vietnamese, while Nguyen translated to me.

Turns out, Rich Guy wants to matchmake his nephew to whomever. Nguyen’s mom said that her niece (who’s staying with them) is available.

And Rich Guy brought us to his nephew’s “farm” and Nguyen was brought in to see said nephew. I pretended to be busy taking random photos of grass.

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Lemon grass looks so much like wild grass that I was suprised when Nguyen pointed them out. I usually tear a bunch and keep them with me, later losing them somewhere.

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After the quick get-to-know-the-nephew, we went for lunch. We had a private room and I was very disturbed to see a large Britney poster (from the period when she still claims to be a virgin) where she laid on the ground with half her boobs exposed.

And there were two other large posters of semi-erotic couples smelling each other’s neck. And mind you, they were taken pre-Twilight (where smelling necks are acceptable)

The uncles and aunty ordered ducklings and field mouse. I said OK! I’ll try everything

Wet tissue

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Steamboat that Vietnamese eat not only on cold days! Soup stock is ordinary chicken soup (I think)

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Cool Sarsi (coz the restaurant didn’t have Coke) It tasted different from ours, a more herby taste.

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The duck-embryos (being politically correct) out of their shells. The redness I think is blood or just stuff from eggs. You and I eat eggs and ducks (sans feathers though) so eating embryo is perfectly fine.

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Cooked egg. I admit that I’m not used to eating feathers, or else, I can finish it!

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Field mice, on the other hand, was very yummy. Like chicken only with smaller bones and less meat. Yums!

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Saigon beer. One of the uncles had too much beer and was insisting that I meet his son for matchmaking. And he shook my hand for too long. Bless his soul that he forgot what he did after he’s sober.

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Later Nguyen and I were sent home. And we took a nap (which we did everyday in My Tho)

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Later at night, Nguyen’s male companion came and us three went out. He took her to a petrol station for free petrol.

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We ate snacks at the streetside.

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Savory, like tutu kuih but with very nice toppings.

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Very nice sugarcane with mandarin juice!

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We tapau another with coconut milk to have it sweet.

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After tutu kueh, we went to a cafe where I had preserved lime drink. We watched on the cafe TV Brandon Fraser in Journey to the Centre of the Earth. Very disturbed to find him kissing the girl in the end. He looked like Humphrey Humphrey with a blond Lolita wearing a sweaty singlet and short shorts.

We left for home after the movie. And slept v early.

Good night

0812 Pre trip and Leaving for Saigon

My trip to Ho Chi Minh City began in an instant message chat:

Me: I’m hungry!
Nguyen: Come here and I’ll treat you dinner.
Me: (Thinking she’s still in China) I want claypot noodles
Nguyen: You should ask for pho. I’m back in Vietnam
Me: Oh!
Nguyen: Want to come visit?
Me: (After 5 minutes of inner struggle) I’ll ask my mom

The tickets were quite cheap, and mom (being mom and perhaps a bit guilty that she let my sister go to Australia while I could not go Taiwan) said yes.

So I bought a ticket leaving Aug 12, and returning 22. And the rest, will be (hopefully) recorded here.

———
I started packing my bags four days before the trip. Packing as in throwing everything I want to bring into a box to decide if I really need them.

I didn’t want to drag a luggage around as Nguyen might be fetching me on her motorcycle. So I got a red backpack from Carrefour at $4.90 as a check in bag.

A girl needs all her toiletries, and not all of them are in 100ml containers. 100ml of sunblock can only last how many days?

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I left the house on a sunny morning, 15 minutes later than planned.

Nearby, there was this sign.

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On the MRT, I was appalled by who would want to buy bakkwa that looks like Chinese sausages or more yucky–stools.

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Part of my: These Crocs are made for walking series. In the MRT

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I was just barely on time for check in as the budget terminal shuttle bus took the longest time to arrive.

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I’m leaving on a jet plane~

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Immigration form that I filled in painstakingly which the immigration officer didnt collect.

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Another part of the–photos in foreign toilets series.

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Welcome to HCM indeed. While walking along the corridor to the baggage collection, I looked out the window at the car park and realised it’s really a “motorcycle park” instead

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I changed my Singaporean dollars to Vietnamese Dong at $1 to 12,530 and I was a millionaire.

As I stepped out the airport, scanning the crowd, I saw a someone with a big hat shouting. It’s Nguyen! It has been two full years since we last met.

I met her mother and we hopped on a car to her godparents’ place.

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Nguyen’s godmother prepared a huge lunch!

First up was stuffed snails. I figured if the French can eat them, so can I. I dipped them into fish sauce and garlic shreds. And they were chewy and yum!

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Underfed-looking spring roll rolled by myself

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After lunch, I went with Nguyen and her mom back to her home in My Tho.

And I rediscovered an old skill of mine– I am able to fall asleep on any cars as long as the scenery is not buildings. So I slept all the way from Saigon to My Tho and woke up with a sore neck. But all was well!!

At night, I had my first motorbike ride since 10. I admit. It is super duper scary. I had flashes of my life passing by my eyes. And wondered if my insurance (thank heavens I bought it) pays for motorbike accidents.

But Nguyen was a very good driver and I survived my ten days of bike riding.

We had supper– noodles.

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I found this funny– electrical candles in front of the Virgin Mary

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Very yummy shaved ice with a lot of fruits

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Another travel coming up!

Old Saigon
Old Saigon
Old Saigon

I’ve decided to continue using this blog to record my travels (yes, plural because I forsee unending travels!)

On 12 Aug (Wed), I will be going to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. This is the first time I am going to a country where I do not understand the language. This scares me quite a it because I will just be staring at people while they tell me I have spinach stuck between my teeth.

I will be staying with Nguyen for the trip. I’ve decided not to prepare an itinerary (which I find very difficult to spell) but prepare a list of Places I Want to Visit because of my local guide.—-

Cramming basic Vietnamese through youtube videos!